Charlie Waite's top tips for taking successful landscape photographs

1> Using your hands, make them into a rectangle to see whether there is a photograph to be made. Better still, make a piece of black card about 4 X 5 inches with a rectangular aperture cut out of it. This will help a great deal to remove the potential image from its context.

2> Close focus to check that there is nothing in the immediate foreground that would not be visible with the lens set at infinity. Out of focus foregrounds can look sloppy. For flowers and extreme close ups however when the ackground and foreground is thrown out of focus think about what colours and shapes will evolve from doing so at the aperture being used.

3> Take your eye around the outside edge of the view finder.... twice to be totally familiar with all that exists on the perimeter. Decide whether what exists on the outside edge supports what takes place within the body of the image.

4> When there is something just outside the field of view that you do not want to include, remember that some camera viewfinders show you only 97%.Make allowances!

5> When photographing with the sun in front of you, do not assume that the lens hood will prevent direct sunlight falling on to the front element of the lens. Unintentional flare is the photographers worst enemy. Use your hand or a piece of card. Better still get a friend to stand to one side and ensure that the lens is flare free.

6> Delve deep into your creation. It may become a 20X16 print! All components must be evaluated. Consider everything! Decide whether what is included plays an important part in your production. Omit the redundant! You are the producer, art director and camera person all rolled into one. You must take responsibility.

7> If time allows try not to rush. Settle into your photograph. Haste and pressure are barriers to creativity.

8> If you have a tripod, use it! It has two functions. First and most obviously to allow long time exposures as well as allowing you to use more techniques; secondly and as important, it allows you to take your photograph seriously. With the aid of a tripod fine adjustments can be made.

9> Landscape Photography can be a form of contemplation and meditation. Become absorbed and get into the "right frame of mind".

10> Be alert. "Chance favours the prepared mind" (Quote Ansel Adams)

11> Fine tune your vision.

12> If there is no landscape in front of you, look around, there may be one at your feet.

13> Consider small details.

14> If you have a single lens reflex camera I recommend bracketing (taking exposures of a half to two thirds of a stop either side of the one suggested by the meter in your camera). With transparency this is advisable as all slide films have very little exposure latitude.

15> Think simple.

16> Write things down. There is nothing more shaming than having to admit when someone says how marvellous your photograph is "Oh dear, I can't remember what I did" or worse still, "where it was!"

17> Ask yourself when looking through the camera "Can I see this image framed and proudly displayed on a wall"?

18> If the sky is lacking in interest i.e. too bland or too blue or grey then try leaving it out all together. If the sky is good then let it have its say. Try devoting three quarters of the photograph to the sky if it is remarkable. Include whole clouds if possible. With reflections, try to include entire clouds. "Every cloud has its certain valid moment".

19> Look at where the shadows are and how deep they are! It is surprising how deep black "nothingness" can dominate a photograph as much as unwanted highlights. Find a balance.

20> Look for graphics and the abstract. Look for shapes and patterns.

21> Squint to evaluate brightness range. It is the best way to see whether it is too great for the capacity of the film to record.

22> Big views are difficult. Try to make them coherent.

23> Use cloud shadow to conceal ugly features. Also cloud shadow can help give a landscape a greater sense of depth and dimension. Look up to see what the clouds are doing.

24> All atmosphere is turned off when top light is turned on. Try not to photograph expansive views in the middle of the day. Early light offering long shadows is preferable. Equally, in the late evening light just after the sun has set, the "afterglow" can produce a lovely luminous light.

25> Be aware of light. A photographer must be acutely aware of the nature and quality of light and how the light is falling on the subject. Light is everything!

26> Look at lonely trees. Most photographers cannot resist them especially with a lovely sky above. Try to include the base of a tree. Try also not to cut the tops off!

27> Think about the effect that a prevailing wind may have on your photograph. If your film is too slow to allow for a short shutter speed to stop motion then consider using a long shutter speed intentionally to convey a sense of movement in foliage etc. thus allowing a precious small aperture to be preserved.

28> Look at other people’s images in books, exhibitions and magazines. We can learn from one another.

29> Look at postcards with a critical eye. Buy your worst and your best. Compare postcards of the same subject.

30> Cover the viewfinder of your camera if your face is not close up to it at the moment of exposure. Alternatively set the camera to manual having established (with your eye the viewfinder) the correct exposure in either of the auto modes. Sometimes stray light can enter the metering system and distort correct exposure often by as much as a stop! This can have catastrophic consequences. Beware!!

31> As you leave a location, have one last look to check that nothing has been left behind.

32> Experiment and be daring!

33> Persevere and never give up.

See plenty of excellent examples of all of this at charliewaite.com